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  • You guys are awesome, thank you so much for looking after Taruni. - Sue from Greenbank

  • Amazing staff & services!- Susan from Beaudesert

  • Thank you so much for coming out to stitch my poor horse up this morning! It is the second time that I have had to call and get someone out and the service has been wonderful...and my horse is looking and feeling a lot better. - Jennie from Cedar Grove

  • Dr David Barthomomuez is brilliant. Yes I am totally biased but it is based on my experience over the last 6 wks with my mare Rivver. Treatment is still on going and I get the pleasure of picking David's brain for lots of horsey info when he does his weekly visit! I am very impressed with the way David handles and treats my mare, he genuinely cares. The girls in the office have also been wonderful to deal with. Keep up the great work team Vevs! - Cindi from Tamborine Village

  • "Thank you for your after-care service, I am very very impressed to say the least. The phone call from you today following up on my horses progress has won my business."

    - Sue from Gardenvale Stud

  • "Thanks to Dr David for helping my old man feel better... I would recommend this veterinary clinic to anyone, and I wouldn't use any other vet."

    -Nelly from Munruben

  • "I cannot fault their willingness to assist you as soon as possible, their capacity to prioritise so the most urgent animals are attended to quickly, their gentle way with horses, their knowledge and their reasonable prices..." - Sharon from Cedar Grove

  • "Thanks so much to Dr Dave and the team for all your hard work with getting Karrie in foal!!! We are very grateful and couldn't have done it without you guys!" - Lynette from Logan Village
  • "Your patience and gentle nature were greatly appreciated by both of us. Thank you." - Karen from Jimboomba

  • "Our family would like to give a big thank you and hug to Dr David, Kelly & all the team at Veresdale Equine Veterinary Services for saving our dog sid from a brown snake bite. Without their caring services I dont think sid would of made it, thanks guys. " - Hurchalla Family

  • "David and his team treat their client’s animals as if they were their own and have helped me and my horses in some very stressful situations over the years, thankfully, always with a excellent outcome!" - Toni from Jimboomba
  • "Thank you so much for the extra good care you took of Lilly ... I’ve always been extremely happy with Dave as our vet, I think he truly does a wonderful job, and you can really see how much he cares.” - Tania Banek

  • "The fact that Dave has been my vet for many years speaks volumes.  Dave has a very nice manner and deals with the horses in a calm and kind way.  He always takes time to explain options and procedures and to advise on what he considers to be the best course of treatment." - Gillian Coote
  • "Although we may have moved, we would not consider using any other veterinarian other than David to care for our horses." – Brett and Danielle from Wonglepong

  • "David has been my vet now for several years. Over that time with the highs and lows of my veterinary needs, David has always been compassionate, caring and friendly." - Marnie Wilmott

  • "We really appreciate David's practical, no-nonsense approach to everything, his vast knowledge and his abilities."

    – Marty & Danielle at North Maclean

  • "We feel that the care David shows our horses is the same as if they were his own."

    Weownna Warmbloods

  • "We have been using Dr "Bart" since we bought our first two ponies for our girls 6 years ago. He has always given us great advice and service over the years." – B & G Russell

  • "At VEVS, I always get the right advice, which means I’ve always gotten the right result"

    – Peter @ Acton Classical Equitation

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Since 2009 Queensland Legislation has required puppies between 8 and 12 weeks of age be implanted with a microchip. Any puppies born after 26 May 2017 must have a "supplier number" included in the microchip details. Our clinic can implant your puppy or dog. For more information on supplier numbers go to daf.qld.gov.au/animal-industries


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For Cats

We stock a range of treatments for flease, ticks and worms as well as oral health products and cat collars.

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For Dogs

We stock treatments for fleas, ticks and worms as well as shampoos, toys, leads and much more. We also have a range of dog and cat food.

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Cat Dentistry

Our team of vets are experienced with feline dentistry, espcially Dr Dave who has a MACVs in dentistry. Maintaining good dental health is a very important part of maintaining overall health.


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Crate PuppyCrate Training

Dogs are den animals by nature so therefore, can feel secure and relaxed in an enclosed place and if trained, a crate can become a private sanctuary for your pet. Crate training your puppy or dog may be useful in many different situations – for example – travelling, vet visits, toilet training, or any time that your dog may need to be confined ie: if injured or after surgery.


Short Term Goal - To enter the crate with the door left open.


Step One: Buying a crate

 1. Type - (Metal heavy duty, wire collapsible, plastic or fabric)

 2. Size - (Is this big enough for your puppy/dog?)

 3. Bedding - (Must be comfortable and cosy)

 4. Water - (Must have water)

 5. Treats and Toys - (Your puppy/dog's favourite toys)

 6. Location - (Ensure the create is in an appropriate location)


Think about all of the above and ask yourself why you are teaching your puppy/dog to crate train? What sort of crate do you need? How big will my puppy get?

Use bedding that your puppy/dog is comfortable with or that has your scent on it to help him relax. Always ensure that there is access to fresh water. Use your puppy/dogs favourite toys to make him comfortable and ensure that initially the crate is in a location that is central to the house and where the family spend a lot of time.

Once you have chosen and purchased your crate and fitted it out with all of the required accessories to make it a comfortable place for your puppy/dog, you can move onto step two.


Step Two: Introduce your puppy to the crate

 1. Place the crate in a location where you spend a lot of time. Your puppy may explore the create on his own.

 2. Once your puppy is exploring the crate, continue to throw treats into the crate and each time he/she enters the crate start to use a verbal "cue" word by repeating the word such as "crate" or "bed".

 3. Continue this until he/she calmly walks into the crate to get the treat. Once this is happening every time you toss the treat and say the cue word, you can move onto step three.


NOTE: This step may take a few minutes or it could take several days


Troubleshooting - if your dog doesn't explore the crate on his/her own:


 - Whilst talking to him/her in a happy tone, bring him/her over to the crate

 - Leave some treats nearby to encourage him/her to explore

 - Place some treats just inside the door to encorage him/her to enter the crate

 - Throw the treats all the way in so he/she has to enter the crate to get them. (Don't force him to enter if he refuses to. He will get used to it. If he isn't food driven, try tossing his favourite play toy)


Medium Term Goal Go into the crate on his/her own and have the door closed for one minute.


Step Three: Feed meals inside the crate

 1. If he/she is readily entering the crate when you approach, place his food bowl in all the way at the back of the crate and say your cue word

 2. Once he/she will stand comfortably inside and eat his meal, close the door while he/she is eating

 3. For the first time, as soon as he/she finishes eating, open the door

 4. Each time you feed after this first time, leave the door closed for a little longer until eventually he/she is in the crate for about 10 minutes after he/she finishes eating.

 5. Before opening the door each time, ask your puppy to sit and give him/her a treat through the top of the crate. Open the door and invite him/her out and use a cue word such as "free", "out", "exit" or "break". Once this is happening often and comfortably, you can move onto step four.


NOTE: This step could take up to a couple of weeks depending on the dog and the training frequency.


Troubleshooting - If he/she is still a little reluctant about entering the crate, place his/her food bowl only as far as he is willing to go. Each time you feed him/her, place the bowl a little further in until he/she is in all the way without being nervous or anxious. Don't rush this step. Let your puppy do it at their own pace.

If your puppy starts to whine when the door is closed, it may be because the time in the crate was increased too quickly. Don't let him/her out of the crate until he/she stops crying or whining, or he/she will learn that when he/she cries or whines, he/she will be let out. Next time, try leaving him/her in for a shorter length of time.


Step Four - Leaving your puppy in the crate for longer periods

If step three is occuring with no signs of anxiety or fear, you can continue onto the below step:

 1. Go back to calling your puppy over to the crate, using your cue word for enter and throwing the treat into the crate. After your puppy is inside, praise and close the door.

 2. Sit quietly near the crate for 5-10 minutes and then leave the room for another couple of minutes. Return and sit quietly again for another couple of minutes and then let your puppy out.

 3. This process needs to be repeated as often throughout the day as possible, gradually making the time you leave him/her in the crate and the length of time you are out of the room longer.

 4. Once your puppy stays quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of the room, without any anxiety, you can being to leave him crated while you make a short trip away from the home. Continue to step five.


Step Five - Going out and leaving him in the crate

 1. Only attempt this stage after step 4 has prograssed without any fear or anxiety.

 2. Ask your puppy to enter the crate using your usual command and treat

 3. Leave a few of the favourite toys with him/her as well. Freezing a stuffed rubber "Kong" chew toy will occupy your puppy for a while after you leave.

 4. Crate him/her anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Try to vary the time that he/she is in the crate before you leave.

 5. When you leave, make it straight forward and matter-of-fact. Don't be emotional or prolong your departure. Praise him briefly, give him a treat and then leave quietly.

 6. When you get home, he will be excited but don't reward him by reponding excitedly or with enthusiasm. Keep your arrival low key to avoid his anxiety increasing over when you will return home.


Step Six - Crating your dog at night time.

 1. Start by putting the crate in your bedroom next to your bed, or in the hallway near your bedroom

 2. Ask your puppy to enter the crate using your cue word for enter and giving him/her a treat

 3. Depending on your puppy or dogs age, he may not be able to go the whole night without needing to go to the toilet, so with him/her near you, you will be able to hear if he/she needs to go for a walk

 4. Once your puppy is sleeping comfortably all through the night in the crate near you, you can begin to slowly move the crate to a position of the house that suits you.


Troubleshooting - If your puppy starts whining in the crate at night, it may mean that he/she needs to go to the toilet. If you have followed the training plan above, and he/she hasn't been rewarded for whining by being let out of the crate, he/she shouldn't whine for attention. If you think that he/she shouldn't need a toilet break, try to ignore the whining. If he/she is testing you, he/she should stop whining soon. If the whining continues after several minutes, use the cue word that you use for his/her toileting. If he/she becomes excited, you should take him/her outside. Make sure that this is just a toilet trip, not playtime. After he/she eliminates, bring he/she back inside and put he/she back into the crate using your enter cue word and a treat.


Written by Emma Pearse


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Saturday, 23 September 2017